Malibu on Fire!
When the Santa Ana winds blew in October 2007, California’s was set on fire, and while the raging infernos consumed over a thousand homes, a powerful south swell met an early northwest and lit up peaks along the south coast. A postcard from empty Malibu, with epic badboy Bunker Spreckels in the mix.
Words by Takuji Masuda • Photos by Bill Parr & Steven Lippman
Desert Life: Riding the Learning Curve on WA’s Heaviest Left
It’s a long established tradition among the WA charging fraternity: pack your guns and head up into the desert for some serious slab hunting. But this particular point is the longest, most warpy beast of them all. Before you head out there, take a few tips from those who know.
Words by Brett Hardy • Photos by Russell Ord
They’re always there. They sense it when you get in the water, and they know when you’ve peed in your wetsuit. In general, sharks are pretty benign, but occasionally our deepest horrors come to pass. An anthology of tales about surfers and heavy locals.
Words by Mark Gray, Greg Huglin, Terry Lilley, Dave Sparkes, David Pu’u & Craig Jarvis • Photos by Greg Huglin, Dave Sparkes, Bernie Baker, Terry Lilley, Boots McGhee, Joe Foster, Jordan Junck & Callaghan Fritz-Cope
Perfumed Mystique in Comoros
With nothing but tantalizing tidbits from an ancient surf mag and commonsense optimism, a crew of veteran surf explorers heads over to the Comoros Islands off Africa’s east coast. There’s surf, and wind, and wild shorelines with distinct island cultures. It’s Africa, but not as we surfers have ever known it.
Words by Mike Kew • Photos by John Callahan & Mike Kew
Shooting From the Heart: A Steve Fitzpatrick Portfolio
Half man, half fish, Steve Fitz has an eye for magic moments. This folio is heavy on images from his adopted home, ‘The Hawaii of the Atlantic’ – Puerto Rico. Over the years Steve has become deeply involved with the island, as you can tell.
Words and Photos by Steve Fitzpatrick
A LEAP of Faith
The Hinako Islands of Northern Sumatra are a strange place to go for a honeymoon, but then Ruby and Channa Senaratne are an unusual couple. What they saw on that trip convinced them to move the whole family there and to help the islanders help themselves out of crippling poverty.
Words by Tim Baler • Photos by Richard Wallace, Noah Hamilton & Matt Johnson
Fortune Favours the Brave
A North Shore crew swaps a small summer at home for the gut-wrenching pleasures of a pilgrimage to the Mexican Pipeline Mecca. First-timers are always shocked, even North Shore guys, but not just by the waves. The spirit of the place is as glorious as the tubes.
Words and Photos by Tor Johnson • Additional photos by Adam Warmington
It’s not often that NYC hits the surfing spotlight, but that’s what Gerry Lopez, Darrick Doerner and a flotilla of others were aiming at by circling the Big Apple on stand-up paddleboards. Raising awareness of autism was the motive, and 28 miles is a long way, unless you know a few tricks, and Lopez does.
Words by Gerry Lopez • Photos by John Decker & Andrew Brusso