The Epic Swell
Posted on February 07, 2007 @ 7:25 AM
Dorian rode the wave as none of us could fathom ourselves
doing. He was relaxed and perfectly tuned with the rhythm that
Mother Ocean had conjured up for him. It just kind of left us
dumbfounded. I remember dropping the camera to look amongst
us, and wishing I could instead have caught some of the expressions
I saw; many, like me, had a feeling we were experiencing something
of a once in a lifetime spectacle.
After some more unforgettable rides from Dorian, we all
headed back to our little speck of an island for lunch. For the rest
of the day the familiar refrain was, “Geez if the trip ended now it
would have been totally worth it”.
The next day came and it was still clean, but a tad smaller.
Many of us were able to get some of the best that Swimming Pools
has to offer, better than the previous day which had suffered some
sketchy winds. I know I, as well as everyone else out, had a gas on a
number of nice sets, some approaching double-overhead. The other
spots were still a good size, but we were all becoming pretty brazen by then. Had we landed here in the middle of the swell, I think
our mix of older geezer types and young guns would have been
a bit haired with the size, power and strength of current that all
but whips you up or down the take-off ledge depending on the
tide’s direction. But we’d got a chance to warm up with classic
conditions in perfect medium-sized surf, and after seeing really
big Cloudbreak, I think we were all mentally up to the challenges
that Namotu offered us.
By the end of Day Five, my arms were
truly like rubber, lacking any last get-into-it propulsion, and my
neck and lower back were stiff as boards. But we were all in total
bliss on this little speck of paradise in the Fijian sea, enjoying the hell out of life.
The swell dropped some, and then some more, but by our
last day I just didn’t have it in me to do much more than chill by
the cascading waterfall dumping into the pool while reading my
John Grisham thriller.
In closing I have to comment on observations by others
that the Fijians are the friendliest people in the Pacifi c. Speaking
for myself (and others I am sure) nothing truer can be said.
To all the great people who made this life-time experience a
reality, I give you a hearty ‘Bula’ and many thanks, ‘Vinaka’, for
all your kindness.
Epilogue
Upon returning from Fiji I thought I had some surf pics that were defi nitely worth
sharing and, mistakenly and without much forethought, submitted them to another
big-name surf magazine. Their initial response was extremely positive, until I received
what was represented as a “friendly call” from one of their staff photographers. I was
“asked” not to submit my photos to any other magazines as he and I were the only
ones with professional camera gear to witness this particular session at Cloudbreak,
and he wanted to have the “exclusive” for his magazine.
I was ultimately levied a threat that should I submit mine elsewhere, this
particular photographer would contact the folks running Tavarua and see to it that
Namotu guests would henceforth never be allowed to view the waves at Cloudbreak
from the channel. Wow, what a heavy trip! I sure didn’t want this ultimatum to rest
on my shoulders. The last thing I wanted to get into was a political fray that would
jeopardize the freedom of subsequent surfi ng guests of Namotu being able to see
anything close to what I had experienced. I stewed on it; then decided to get in touch
with Namotu’s managing owner to see if there might be any substance to the threat.
I received a timely reply that said I should go ahead and share my pictures with
whomever I wanted and that there was no validity to this supposed big-wig’s threat.
Thanks to TSP for the opportunity to share this with others through your
great magazine.
Gary Simpson lives and surfs in the Santa Barbara area – think Rincon and Ranch – where he runs the
family business his father started 40 years ago. He has enjoyed previous incarnations as a serious surf
traveller, living for stints in Oahu, Guam, New Zealand and Australia. These days, at 57, he’s sure he’s got
plenty of good surfi ng years ahead, but is getting back into surf photography, inspired by his experiences in
Fiji last year.
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