Here’s a sweet clip of our friend Derek Hynd riding a finless board at Supertubes, Jeffreys Bay, South Africa.
Former ’80s professional and a well-known savant in the surf world, Derek has been a pioneering new ground for decades, but in the last few years he’s re-written the book on our connection to the wave face. It all started over three years ago he began teaching someone how to surf. In order to be able to empathize with them as they grappled with the issues of balance and momentum, Derek decided to take the fins off his own board. This took him places he’d never been on a wave and flew him faster than he’d ever flown.
Last I heard from DH was that he hadn’t ridden a board with fins in two years. That was some time last year. Since then I’ve heard tales from his associates and cohorts from Avalon to JBay who confirm the man is indeed a finless wonder.
This little Youtube clip gives you a good idea of how well he surfs these boards, and I’d highly recommend you get hold of Mick Sowry’s film Musica Surfica which delves deep into the whole concept of finless boards from ancient Alaias to DH. The film ends with some insane footage of DH at 8ft plus JBay, spinning and winging it across some truly monstrous walls. I’ll try and get a clip of that section, but for now, here’s a tasty starter.